How to Store a Car or Truck Long-Term in South Dakota

Storing a vehicle for the winter? Heading south as a snowbird? Got a classic car or project truck that needs a home? Long-term vehicle storage in South Dakota requires more than just parking it and walking away. Here’s what to do — and what happens when you don’t.

Why You Can’t Just Park It and Leave

A car that sits idle for three months or more isn’t “resting.” It’s deteriorating. Fuel goes stale. Oil turns acidic. Tires develop flat spots. Batteries die. Brake rotors rust. Seals dry out. And in South Dakota, mice move in like they’ve signed a lease.

Every spring, mechanics across the Yankton, Tyndall, Springfield, and Freeman area deal with the same problems: dead batteries, corroded fuel systems, chewed wiring harnesses, and flat-spotted tires — all from vehicles that were “just parked for the winter.”

Thirty minutes of prep before storage prevents hundreds (sometimes thousands) of dollars in repairs after.

The Complete Vehicle Storage Prep Checklist

Fuel System

• Fill the tank completely. A full tank prevents condensation from forming on the inside walls of the tank. Condensation means water in your fuel, which means corrosion and fuel system problems.
• Add fuel stabilizer. Follow the product directions for your tank size. STA-BIL is the standard, but any quality stabilizer works.
• Run the engine for 10-15 minutes after adding stabilizer to circulate treated fuel through the entire system — fuel lines, injectors, and carburetor (if applicable).

Engine and Fluids

• Change the oil and filter. Used oil contains acids and contaminants that eat at engine internals when they sit for months. Fresh oil protects metal surfaces during storage.
• Top off all fluids — coolant, brake fluid, power steering, transmission, windshield washer. Low fluid levels allow air pockets, which promote condensation and corrosion.
• Check the coolant mixture. In South Dakota, your antifreeze needs to protect well below -20°F. If it’s been a while since you changed it, now’s the time.

Battery

You have two options:

Option A: Remove the battery. Take it out, store it in a temperature-stable location (a heated garage or basement), and put it on a trickle charger or battery maintainer. This is the best option for storage longer than three months.

Option B: Leave it connected with a maintainer. If your storage unit has electrical access (or you’re storing at home), connect a battery maintainer. It keeps the battery at optimal charge without overcharging.

Do not just disconnect the battery and leave it in the car. An unmonitored battery in a freezing vehicle will die, and deep discharge kills batteries permanently.

Tires

• Inflate to the maximum recommended PSI (check the tire sidewall, not the door sticker — the sidewall shows max). Slightly overinflating compensates for the air loss that occurs during storage.
• Flat spots are real. Tires develop flat spots when they sit in one position for months, especially in cold weather. For long-term storage (6+ months), consider jack stands to take weight off the tires. For shorter periods, overinflation is usually sufficient.
• If storing on gravel or dirt, place plywood or rubber mats under the tires to prevent moisture wicking.

Brakes

• Don’t set the parking brake. Brake pads can bond to rotors during long-term storage, especially in humid or cold conditions. Use wheel chocks instead.
• If the vehicle will sit for 6+ months, consider having the brakes inspected before storage. Surface rust on rotors is normal and clears with use, but stuck calipers or deteriorated pads are a problem.

Exterior

• Wash and wax. A clean, waxed exterior protects paint from dust, moisture, and any contaminants that might be on the surface. Bird droppings, tree sap, and bugs are acidic — they etch paint if left on during storage.
• Treat rubber seals around doors and windows with a rubber conditioner. Dry, cracked seals let in moisture and drafts.
• Cover the vehicle with a breathable car cover. NOT a plastic tarp — plastic traps moisture against the paint and causes more damage than leaving the car uncovered.

Interior

• Clean the interior thoroughly. Crumbs attract mice. Spills create mold. A clean interior is the first line of defense against pests and odors.
• Leave windows cracked slightly (if storing indoors) for air circulation. Sealed cars build up moisture inside.
• Place moisture absorbers (DampRid or similar) on the floor and seats.
• Remove all food, drinks, and scented items. Even a pack of gum is an invitation for mice.

The Rodent Problem

This deserves its own section because in South Dakota, mice are the single biggest threat to stored vehicles.

Mice chew wiring harnesses, nest in air filters and HVAC systems, shred upholstery for bedding, and leave droppings everywhere. A single mouse can cause $500-2,000 in damage to a vehicle’s electrical system.

Prevention measures: - Seal entry points. Stuff steel wool into the exhaust pipe, air intake, and any gaps where rodents could enter. Remove the steel wool before starting the car. - Mouse repellents. Dryer sheets placed throughout the interior and engine bay. Cotton balls soaked in peppermint oil. Commercial rodent deterrent sprays. These aren’t foolproof, but they help. - No food source. A clean car in a clean storage unit gives mice no reason to move in. - Traps. Place snap traps around (not inside) the vehicle. Check them periodically if possible. - Mothballs. Place around (not inside) the vehicle. They’re effective but they stink — don’t put them in the cabin.

Indoor vs. Outdoor Vehicle Storage

Indoor Storage

Your vehicle sits inside an enclosed building. Protected from sun, rain, snow, hail, and temperature extremes (if climate-controlled).

Best for: - Classic cars and collector vehicles - High-value vehicles - Snowbird vehicle storage (6+ months) - Convertibles and vehicles with soft tops

Cost: Higher than outdoor, but the protection justifies it for vehicles worth protecting.

Outdoor (Uncovered) Storage

Your vehicle sits on a pad inside a fenced, gated facility. Protected by security, but exposed to weather.

Best for: - Daily drivers stored for 2-3 months - Trucks and work vehicles - Budget-conscious storage

Cost: Lower, but factor in the additional weathering and prep required.

Covered Storage

A roof over your vehicle, open sides. Middle ground on cost and protection.

Best for: - Vehicles stored through winter that you want protected from snow and ice but don’t need full enclosure - Boats and RVs (see our RV storage guide)

What Size Unit for Vehicle Storage?

Measure your vehicle (length including mirrors, width including mirrors) and add 2-3 feet on each side for door access and walking room.

Insurance During Storage

Your auto insurance policy may allow you to reduce coverage while the vehicle is in storage. Contact your agent and ask about:

• Dropping collision and comprehensive temporarily — only if the vehicle is fully paid off. If you have a loan or lease, your lender requires full coverage.
• Keeping comprehensive but dropping collision — this covers theft, fire, and vandalism while eliminating the collision premium. Good option for stored vehicles.
• Storage-specific riders — some insurers offer reduced-rate policies for vehicles in long-term storage.

Do NOT cancel insurance entirely. If something happens — a break-in, a fire, a roof collapse — you want coverage.

When You’re Ready to Drive Again

Don’t just turn the key and go. Take 15 minutes to bring the car back to life properly:

1. Remove steel wool from exhaust and air intake
2. Check the battery — charge if needed, reconnect if removed
3. Check tire pressure — adjust to normal driving PSI
4. Check all fluid levels
5. Start the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes before driving
6. Check the brakes — pump them a few times before moving. Surface rust on rotors will cause a grinding feel for the first few stops — this is normal and clears quickly.
7. Inspect for rodent damage — check under the hood for chewed wires, nesting material, and droppings. Check the cabin air filter.
8. Drive gently for the first few miles — let everything warm up and circulate

Store It Right, Drive It Later

Long-term vehicle storage in South Dakota doesn’t have to end with a mechanic’s bill. A little prep, the right storage environment, and some mouse prevention go a long way.

Lock N’ Leave It Storage in Tyndall, Springfield, and Freeman offers vehicle-sized units and outdoor storage options for cars, trucks, and motorcycles. Gated access, security cameras, and the peace of mind that your vehicle is safe until you’re ready for it.

Contact us for vehicle storage availability and sizing. We’ll match you with the right space for your rig.