The Ultimate Packing Guide: How to Pack a Storage Unit Like a Pro

A storage unit is only as good as how you pack it. Throw everything in randomly and you’ll spend an hour digging for one box. Pack it right and you’ll walk in, grab what you need, and walk out. Here’s how to do it — from the people who’ve seen thousands of units packed well and thousands packed terribly.

Why Packing Matters More Than You Think

Most people treat a storage unit like a garage: open the door, shove things in, close the door. Then three months later they need something from the back and suddenly it’s an archaeological dig through a wall of boxes and furniture.

A well-packed storage unit saves you: - Time — you find things in minutes, not hours - Money — you fit more in less space, meaning a smaller (cheaper) unit - Stuff — properly packed items don’t get damaged from crushing, moisture, or poor stacking

The difference between a well-packed unit and a poorly packed one isn’t talent — it’s method. Follow these steps and you’ll be fine.

Step 1: Start With a Plan

Before you load a single box, think about access.

What will you need to get to? If you’re storing for six months and you know you’ll need winter coats in October, those coats go near the front. If you’re storing during a home renovation and the contractor might need specific items, keep those accessible.

Draw a rough layout. Heavy furniture goes in first (back and sides). Boxes stack in the middle and front. Leave an aisle down the center if the unit is 10x10 or larger. This aisle is the difference between a usable unit and a frustrating one.

Make an inventory list. Number your boxes. Write down what’s in each one. Keep the list on your phone or tape a copy to the inside of the unit door. When you need box #14, you’ll know it’s the one with kitchen supplies, third row from the back, left side.

Step 2: Use the Right Boxes and Materials

Uniform Box Sizes

The single biggest packing upgrade: use uniform box sizes. Same-sized boxes stack perfectly. Mixed sizes create unstable towers with wasted space between them.

The big three: - Small boxes (16x12x12 or similar): Heavy items — books, tools, canned goods, dishes - Medium boxes (18x18x16 or similar): General household items, kitchen stuff, toys, small appliances - Large boxes (18x18x24 or similar): Light, bulky items — pillows, linens, clothing, lampshades

Rule: Heavy items in small boxes. Light items in large boxes. Ignore this and you’ll have crushed boxes, broken items, and an unstable stack.

Where to Get Boxes

• Moving supply stores — Uniform sizes, good quality, but not free
• Liquor stores — Free, sturdy, uniform sizes (the small ones are perfect for books)
• Grocery stores — Free but variable quality. Banana boxes are great. Produce boxes are flimsy.
• Facebook Marketplace / Buy Nothing groups — People give away moving boxes constantly

Packing Materials

• Packing paper (unprinted newsprint) — For wrapping dishes, glassware, and fragile items. Better than newspaper, which transfers ink.
• Bubble wrap — For extra fragile items. Don’t use on artwork (it leaves impressions).
• Moving blankets or furniture pads — For wrapping furniture surfaces. Available for rent or purchase.
• Plastic stretch wrap — For securing moving blankets, keeping drawers closed, and bundling items together.
• Packing tape — Get a tape gun. You’ll use more tape than you expect.
• Markers — Label every box on at least two sides.

Step 3: Pack Boxes the Right Way

Fill Boxes Completely

Half-empty boxes crush when stacked. Overfilled boxes won’t close properly. Fill to the top, using packing paper or towels to fill gaps. The box should feel firm when you press the top — not caving in, not bulging.

Heaviest Items on Bottom

Inside each box, heavy items go on the bottom, light items on top. Same principle applies to stacking boxes: heavy boxes on the floor, lighter boxes up high.

Wrap Fragile Items Individually

Every plate, glass, and breakable item gets its own wrapping. Don’t stack plates without paper between them. Don’t put glassware in a box without padding on all sides. Use the “would this survive being dropped from waist height?” test. If not, add more padding.

Seal and Label

Tape every box closed — top and bottom. Label on at least two visible sides with: - Contents (be specific: “Kitchen — plates and bowls” not just “kitchen”) - Box number (matching your inventory list) - “FRAGILE” if applicable - Which room it came from

Step 4: Load the Unit

Here’s where the plan comes together.

Layer 1: Heavy Furniture and Large Items (Back Wall)

Start with the heaviest, largest items against the back wall: - Couches (stand on end to save floor space) - Dressers and bookshelves (drawers can hold small items — use them) - Mattresses (in mattress bags, ideally flat — or on their side against the wall) - Appliances (cleaned, dried, doors propped slightly open) - Tables (legs removed if possible, flat against the wall or upside-down with legs up)

Protect everything. Moving blankets over all furniture surfaces. Plastic wrap to hold blankets in place. Cover upholstered items to prevent dust accumulation.

Layer 2: Boxes (Middle Section)

Stack boxes on top of and around furniture: - Heavy boxes on the floor - Medium boxes in the middle - Light boxes on top - Uniform sizes stack best — this is where the investment in same-sized boxes pays off - Don’t stack higher than you can safely reach - Labels facing outward for easy identification

Create your center aisle now. Leave 2-3 feet of walkway down the middle (or along one side) of the unit. This aisle lets you access items without unloading the entire unit.

Layer 3: Frequently Accessed Items (Front)

Anything you might need before you empty the entire unit goes near the door: - Seasonal clothing you’ll swap in a few months - Documents you might need for tax filing - Tools or supplies for an ongoing project - The one box you always forget to keep accessible (so just keep a few near the front)

Layer 4: Final Items

Fill remaining gaps with soft items — pillows, blankets, stuffed bags of clothing. These won’t be damaged by compression and they use dead space efficiently.

Step 5: Protect Against the Elements

Even in a quality storage unit, take precautions:

Moisture

Southeast South Dakota has humid summers and long, cold winters. Both create moisture issues.

• Plastic bins over cardboard for anything moisture-sensitive
• Silica gel packets or DampRid placed throughout the unit absorb humidity
• Don’t push items directly against exterior walls — leave a small air gap for circulation
• Elevate items off the floor if possible (pallets or 2x4s work)
• Climate-controlled storage eliminates most moisture concerns — read our comparison

Pests

Mice are the #1 pest concern in South Dakota storage. They chew through cardboard, nest in furniture, and destroy stored clothing.

• Sealed plastic bins instead of cardboard
• No food of any kind in the unit (including pet food, birdseed, and open packages)
• Dryer sheets placed around the unit deter mice (they dislike the scent)
• Cotton balls with peppermint oil — another deterrent
• Check periodically — if you spot droppings early, you can address the problem before damage occurs

Dust

Even in a sealed unit, dust accumulates over months.

• Cover furniture and upholstered items with sheets or moving blankets
• Use lidded bins instead of open boxes
• Seal the unit well — make sure the door closes completely

What NOT to Do

Learn from other people’s mistakes:

❌ Don’t use trash bags for clothing. They trap moisture and promote mildew. Use wardrobe boxes or sealed plastic bins.

❌ Don’t store a full fridge or freezer. Clean it, defrost it, dry it completely, and prop the door open.

❌ Don’t stack heavy items on fragile ones. Obvious, but it happens constantly.

❌ Don’t leave an aisle-free unit. You will regret it the first time you need something from the back.

❌ Don’t skip the inventory list. “I’ll remember what’s in each box” is a lie you tell yourself. You won’t.

❌ Don’t store prohibited items. No flammable liquids, no perishable food, no hazardous materials. Full list of what you can and can’t store.

The Quick-Reference Packing Checklist

• [ ] Made an inventory list (numbered boxes, contents logged)
• [ ] Used uniform box sizes
• [ ] Heavy items in small boxes, light items in large boxes
• [ ] Fragile items individually wrapped
• [ ] All boxes sealed and labeled on two sides
• [ ] Furniture wrapped in moving blankets
• [ ] Heaviest items loaded first (back wall)
• [ ] Center aisle maintained for access
• [ ] Frequently needed items near the front
• [ ] Moisture absorbers placed throughout
• [ ] No food in the unit
• [ ] No prohibited or hazardous items
• [ ] Inventory list taped inside the door

Pack It Right, Forget About It

A well-packed storage unit is one you don’t have to think about. Everything is protected, organized, and accessible. You lock the door and go about your life knowing that when you need something, it’ll take five minutes to find — not five hours.

Lock N’ Leave It Storage in Tyndall, Springfield, and Freeman gives you clean, secure units in the sizes you need. We’ll help you figure out the right size for your stuff — bring your inventory list and we’ll make a recommendation.

Reserve your unit today and start packing like you know what you’re doing. Because now you do.